A brief history of cross stitch

I didn’t know what I was going to find when I set out to write an article about the history of cross stitch. And now instead I feel amazed and fortunate to be moving forward with an embroidery technique that has been done for centuries by so many hands from all corners of the world, way before mine stumbled upon the first spool of thread (back in the 90s) on my aunt’s couch, when my feet barely reached the floor. This is the history of cross stitch, from the first crosses to the latest Instagram posts.

Background: the first stitches

Embroidery is almost as old as mankind itself. We have always had the need to cover ourselves and decorate our clothes, and embroidery has been fundamental for this. Although cross stitch is much later, I find it very interesting to note that the first traces of embroidery date back to 30,000 BC. In 1964 in Russia, the remains of a hunter of that time who wore garments decorated with embroidery and ivory beads were discovered.

Throughout history, cultures of all times and places in the world have had a place for embroidery, sewing and clothing decoration. From the first civilizations of the Middle East to India or Eastern Europe among others, we can find samples of embroidery of all styles and colors.

But to find cross stitch we must travel to the 7th century, to China.

7th to 10th centuries: Cross Stitch and the Tang Dynasty period

Although historical and archaeological evidence is not conclusive, some historians suggest that the earliest examples of cross-stitch embroidery can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty period (618-906) in China.

During that period this embroidery was very popular and was done with silk thread. Perhaps the first cross-stitch patterns also emerged, but as the writings made by women were burned once she died as an offering to the afterlife from her friends and family, we will never know (but it is nice to imagine that 1300 years ago there were people designing and sharing cross-stitch patterns).

It is believed that embroidery may have traveled to China from Persia or India and then to the West from China via the great trade routes such as the Silk Road.

8th to 15th centuries: The origins of blackwork

In Spain, under the influence of the Arab civilization, blackwork (a type of embroidery in which geometric designs are made on linen cloth with black wool) becomes popular. So much so that Catherine of Aragon took it to England when she married King Henry VIII, who wore this type of embroidery on his royal garments.

16th century: Cross stitch samplers and first books of patterns

During this period the popularity of cross stitch increases thanks to the evolution of the printing press. The first recorded book of cross stitch patterns dates from 1524 and was printed in Germany. The first cross stitch patterns consisted of black dots or squares that could be used as a pattern on counted fabric or could be transferred to fabric by punching with an awl and using colored powders. Those early patterns had no colors, and each embroiderer would add whatever color she wanted or had available.

Even so, many women did not have access to books, so they used a scrap of linen to copy their favorite designs to be able to reproduce them later, taking advantage of every last centimeter of fabric because linen was a very expensive fabric. This is the origin of the sampler or stitch sampler, a type of embroidery consisting of a fabric full of different samples that was and still is popular among cross stitch enthusiasts all over the world. 

The oldest surviving sampler as such was made by Jane Bostocke in 1598 to commemorate the birth of her little cousin.

17th century: Embroidered samplers as an educational tool

During this period embroidery pattern books became increasingly available, and the sampler came to be used as an educational tool with which girls learned to embroider the basic stitches. Until the Industrial Revolution, embroidery in Europe was considered a highly valued skill because of the possibility it offered to sew and mend garments. 

In addition, embroidering letters and numbers enables many girls to obtain basic literacy. The sampler is also used to teach moral values and the Bible through the embroidery of quotations. 

The popularity of stitch samplers and embroidery continues through the 18th century, the century in which cross stitch is most commonly used for embroidering samplers.

19th century: Cross stitch during industrialization period

This century is a period of decline in Europe for cross stitch and hand embroidery in general for two reasons:

• Berlin Woolwork. Petit point embroidery on canvas with colored wool was all the rage throughout Europe and North America. During this century, an estimated 14,000 designs appeared in this technique. The fact that the patterns were sold loose made it easier for many middle-class women to take up this hobby. In addition, they were painted in colors, making them easier to read and use. Many of these advances (colored patterns, individual patterns, color and three-dimensional effects, etc.) would later be maintained and applied to cross stitch as we know it today.
• The invention of the sewing machine. In 1828, Joseph Heilman invented the first sewing machine. In turn, Elias Howe designs the first domestic sewing machine, which begins to be manufactured industrially in 1851 by Joseph Singer. This is the beginning of the end of the great value of hand embroidery as an essential tool for sewing garments. Even so, movements such as the Arts & Crafts of William Morris and especially his daughter May will continue to give hand embroidery the value and recognition it deserves.

However, it is also during this century that many of the materials we have today in sewing kits appeared:

• In 1890, the German company Zweigart manufactures the first fabric specifically for cross-stitch embroidery. 
• DMC and Anchor begin to manufacture embroidery thread with industrial processes.

In Mexico, embroidery is experiencing a period of splendor, as it is used to embellish garments (including the huipil, a type of tunic) with floral, geometric and bird motifs combining different stitches, including cross stitch. You can find more information and a pattern inspired by Mexican embroidery in this article from the Victoria and Albert Museum. 

Extra! If you are curious, you can consult a book of cross stitch patterns from the 19th century in this link (it’s very cool!).

20th Century: Cross stitch as a hobby

During the turbulent period of the Great Wars, women support their countries as labor, therefore free time is a luxury that very few people can afford. As a consequence of this and the progressive industrialization, hand embroidery is a discipline that is less and less taught in schools. 

During this period we can find embroidered samplers (mainly with patriotic motifs), although free style embroidery is generally preferred. On the other hand, in Great Britain, cross stitch survives thanks to pre-stamped kits.

Cross-stitch embroidery as a hobby, as we know it today, resurfaced in the 1960s, when leisure time became more common again among the population. Today, this type of embroidery is experiencing a new period of splendor, with more materials than ever at our disposal and countless designers creating unique and wonderful patterns. I’m sure your next pattern is out there, just come across it on Pinterest, Etsy or Instagram. Or maybe in some second-hand vintage magazine? I encourage you to start your treasure hunt, if you want you can start with my store.

Sources:

Agreda, A. (2020). ARTES TEXTILES Y MUNDO FEMENINO: EL BORDADO. Las mujeres y el universo de las artes. https://www.academia.edu/43303846/ARTES_TEXTILES_Y_MUNDO_FEMENINO_EL_BORDADO?hb-g-sw=100828501

Cross-stitch Embroidery Art. (s/f). Chinaculture.org. Recuperado el 15 de enero de 2024, de https://en.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/22/content_57643.htm

Embroidery – a history of needlework samplers. (s/f). Victoria and Albert Museum. Recuperado el 15 de enero de 2024, de https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/embroidery-a-history-of-needlework-samplers

History of cross Stitch. (s/f). Juliesxstitch.com. Recuperado el 15 de enero de 2024, de https://juliesxstitch.com/history-of-cross-stitch

History of embroidery, handicraft of decorating fabric, embroidered clothing, Fibre2fashion. (s/f). Fibre2fashion.com. Recuperado el 15 de enero de 2024, de https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/4135/history-of-embroidery

Threads of History. (s/f). Thecrossstitchguild.com. Recuperado el 15 de enero de 2024, de https://www.thecrossstitchguild.com/cross-stitch-basics/stitchers-study/threads-of-history-by-jo-verso.aspx

Vogelsang, W. (2018, abril 18). 1. Introduction to Berlin work. Trc-Leiden.Nl; TRC Digital Exhibitions. https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/berlin-work-charts/item/153-berlin-wool-charts